WANTED:How-To / Advice for remote deadlocking..
Here's some pics taken earlier today, might be useful for anyone doing this in the future... (assuming I've got it right!)
Drivers kick panel area, Wiring into Central Locking box
Passenger side loom (blurry shot, shows all 3 brown/x wires tho)
Passenger side loom, clearer shot
Glovebox area (green earth wire is hooked onto one of the 3 bolts at the back.
Drivers kick panel area, Wiring into Central Locking box
Passenger side loom (blurry shot, shows all 3 brown/x wires tho)
Passenger side loom, clearer shot
Glovebox area (green earth wire is hooked onto one of the 3 bolts at the back.
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Leigh
Doesnt look like your having much fun with this Leigh... You have my sympathy!
But, now im worried, If you cant do this - I definitely cant. When youve figured it out, and your a remote locking guru you will be able to help me when I get stuck!!! [img]/biggrin.gif[/img]
Did you figure out if you could replace just the motor for a passenger one to get it deadlocking? Or does it need some more jiggery pokery?
How easy is it to swap the motor over? Sounds like it could be complicated!!
But, now im worried, If you cant do this - I definitely cant. When youve figured it out, and your a remote locking guru you will be able to help me when I get stuck!!! [img]/biggrin.gif[/img]
Did you figure out if you could replace just the motor for a passenger one to get it deadlocking? Or does it need some more jiggery pokery?
How easy is it to swap the motor over? Sounds like it could be complicated!!
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craigmcd82
I've not even thought about trying to remote deadlocking yet, for obvious reasons 
SteveU says you can (and has on several occasions for various people) just swap the motors. I don't know yet wether this means you get deadlocked inside the car when you lock from the interior handle.
Maybe I've just been incredibly unlucky and got dodgy fobs and/or unit, combined with having a bad connection for the door unlock/window raise.
Actually, come to think of it, if I disconneted the brown/red (lock pulse) wire and arm it (assuming it ever disarms again!), and I can still lock doors with the remote, then it must be using the brown/black wire for both lock & raise windows. If that is the case then there must be something wrong with the control unit, as it locks the doors but doesn't raise the windows (barring the one try yesterday).
Plenty of others have fitted the kit without problems,...just make sure you've got plenty of spare time when you plan to fit it.
Currently the remaining live key fob (with a nice fresh battery from Maplins about 2 hours ago), will arm the remote kit without a problem. But will not disarm. Previous attempts it took about 2 mins of constant clicking of the fob to get it to disarm, now it just won't, I've removed all trim panels, glovebox etc, can't be the aerial on the unit as it arms at the first click. And because the remote unit isolates the drivers door switches from the factory alarm I now can't disarm it with the key either... asrgghhhhhh
Gonna have to set the alarm off, put ignition to Pos II and pull the power from the battery., then disconnect the remote kit, and reconnect, Hopefully getting the factory alarm back on.
I'm beginning to think this one remaining keyfob is faulty as well, or the remote unit itself.... I asume it sends the code for both arm and disarm, not just disarm?
At least if I can get normal alarm working ok I can leave the remote kit disconnected until I can get some more info/help etc.
SteveU says you can (and has on several occasions for various people) just swap the motors. I don't know yet wether this means you get deadlocked inside the car when you lock from the interior handle.
Maybe I've just been incredibly unlucky and got dodgy fobs and/or unit, combined with having a bad connection for the door unlock/window raise.
Actually, come to think of it, if I disconneted the brown/red (lock pulse) wire and arm it (assuming it ever disarms again!), and I can still lock doors with the remote, then it must be using the brown/black wire for both lock & raise windows. If that is the case then there must be something wrong with the control unit, as it locks the doors but doesn't raise the windows (barring the one try yesterday).
Plenty of others have fitted the kit without problems,...just make sure you've got plenty of spare time when you plan to fit it.
Currently the remaining live key fob (with a nice fresh battery from Maplins about 2 hours ago), will arm the remote kit without a problem. But will not disarm. Previous attempts it took about 2 mins of constant clicking of the fob to get it to disarm, now it just won't, I've removed all trim panels, glovebox etc, can't be the aerial on the unit as it arms at the first click. And because the remote unit isolates the drivers door switches from the factory alarm I now can't disarm it with the key either... asrgghhhhhh
Gonna have to set the alarm off, put ignition to Pos II and pull the power from the battery., then disconnect the remote kit, and reconnect, Hopefully getting the factory alarm back on.
I'm beginning to think this one remaining keyfob is faulty as well, or the remote unit itself.... I asume it sends the code for both arm and disarm, not just disarm?
At least if I can get normal alarm working ok I can leave the remote kit disconnected until I can get some more info/help etc.
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Leigh
How many pencils do you have?
I would personally double/tripple check all teh connections and would also solder the connections as opposed to using 'scotchlocks' as they just dont give a reliable enough connection IMHO.
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Admin
Would do if I had a soldering iron 
SO annoying when I disconnected that brown/red wire and it all worked perfectly, but it's so hard to tell if it's a prob with the unit, or the fob etc etc.
I'm trying to find a better point for the earth wire as well, as the fault list in the back of the manual lists it for one of the "remote control doesn't operate" posibilities. And during this latest armed phase, I noticed the LED for the remote kit was flashing much dimmer than normal,.
Once I started the engine (setting off the alarm in the process of course) it came back to full brightness.
Sound like an earth problem?
I think I'm gonna have to admit defeat for now, and just get it back to using the normal alarm (disconnect the RCL box for now)... so close yet so far
SO annoying when I disconnected that brown/red wire and it all worked perfectly, but it's so hard to tell if it's a prob with the unit, or the fob etc etc.
I'm trying to find a better point for the earth wire as well, as the fault list in the back of the manual lists it for one of the "remote control doesn't operate" posibilities. And during this latest armed phase, I noticed the LED for the remote kit was flashing much dimmer than normal,.
Once I started the engine (setting off the alarm in the process of course) it came back to full brightness.
Sound like an earth problem?
I think I'm gonna have to admit defeat for now, and just get it back to using the normal alarm (disconnect the RCL box for now)... so close yet so far
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Leigh
The earth could have something to do with it. There are plenty of places that you can earth it though. what I have done is actually made my own earthing point in the passengers foodwell, driled a small hole, and tehn ruebbed the paintwork down to the metal and screwed a self tapping screw (with teh wire on a ring) in to make sure that you have a good earth.
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Admin
But no... the saga continues (longest thread ever by one person eh....)
as I said above, suspected the earth (so maybe the door lock wire was a red herring).
I tried pulling the main fuse (blue 15A in line with the constant 12V wire) for the RCL kit, killing the system, and the LED.
When I tried that a couple of times, at first I could disarm, then again I noticed the LED had gone very faint (thought it had stopped altogether at one point cos it was so dim and in the sunshine).
I've moved the earth and to test just wedged it behing the earth connection inside the glovebox area (I think perhaps this is the bolt referred to in the instructions.), started the car (alarm ......) and LED went back to full brightness. Stopped after running engine for a few mins, and could disarm the alarm with the fob. So maybe it not being earthed correctly was the problem all along?
I've now got to try and
a) undo the tiny nut, without losing it or the earth wire thats already attached,
[img]/cool.gif[/img] attach the earth for the remote.
c) reattach bolt
and there isn't a lot of space to move, and I've got small hands!
as I said above, suspected the earth (so maybe the door lock wire was a red herring).
I tried pulling the main fuse (blue 15A in line with the constant 12V wire) for the RCL kit, killing the system, and the LED.
When I tried that a couple of times, at first I could disarm, then again I noticed the LED had gone very faint (thought it had stopped altogether at one point cos it was so dim and in the sunshine).
I've moved the earth and to test just wedged it behing the earth connection inside the glovebox area (I think perhaps this is the bolt referred to in the instructions.), started the car (alarm ......) and LED went back to full brightness. Stopped after running engine for a few mins, and could disarm the alarm with the fob. So maybe it not being earthed correctly was the problem all along?
I've now got to try and
a) undo the tiny nut, without losing it or the earth wire thats already attached,
[img]/cool.gif[/img] attach the earth for the remote.
c) reattach bolt
and there isn't a lot of space to move, and I've got small hands!
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Leigh
<!--sizeo:7--><span style="font-size:36pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo--><!--coloro:red--><span style="color:red"><!--/coloro-->DONE DONE DONE DONE DONE !!!<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--><!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec-->
all working, not intermittently, but all the time. [img]/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/biggrin.gif[/img]
Damn earth wire! removed the little bolt mentioned above, refitted with the earth for the remote kit as well as the one that was already there, and all's working perfectly (well, except the dead remote that is...)
Unfortunately dozy me did all the scotchlock connections in the same place, so I can't quite get the kick panel flush on the passenger side, I guess I'll have to redo them, probably use bullet connectors, or get a soldering iron and make it tidy. Needless to say I'm not doing that just now!!!!!
Sooooo, the next stage will be remote deadlocking , and then delocked handles after that.
So for anyone reading this in the future when looking for info on VX remote locking kit . . . - - - make sure your earth wire is connected properly. I would have saved myself considerable time ! I have left the BROWN/RED lock pulse wire disconnected as well, wether that was also a problem or not I don't know,
all working, not intermittently, but all the time. [img]/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/biggrin.gif[/img]
Damn earth wire! removed the little bolt mentioned above, refitted with the earth for the remote kit as well as the one that was already there, and all's working perfectly (well, except the dead remote that is...)
Unfortunately dozy me did all the scotchlock connections in the same place, so I can't quite get the kick panel flush on the passenger side, I guess I'll have to redo them, probably use bullet connectors, or get a soldering iron and make it tidy. Needless to say I'm not doing that just now!!!!!
Sooooo, the next stage will be remote deadlocking , and then delocked handles after that.
So for anyone reading this in the future when looking for info on VX remote locking kit . . . - - - make sure your earth wire is connected properly. I would have saved myself considerable time ! I have left the BROWN/RED lock pulse wire disconnected as well, wether that was also a problem or not I don't know,
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Leigh
<!--QuoteBegin-Admin+--><div class='quotetop'>(Admin)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->The earth could have something to do with it. There are plenty of places that you can earth it though. what I have done is actually made my own earthing point in the passengers foodwell, driled a small hole, and tehn ruebbed the paintwork down to the metal and screwed a self tapping screw (with teh wire on a ring) in to make sure that you have a good earth.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Yeh, Dad suggested that when I was talking to him before I redid the earth.
Minor problem of not having drill, and not having any self tapping screws...
I'm one of those people who tends to end up buying stuff right in the middle of finding out I need it to finish a job, annoying ! Like for example I now have about 10 spare scotchlocks, and similar number of bullet connectors , cable ties, 5amp cable etc etc. All handy for the future, but would have been better if I had it all at the start.
Yeh, Dad suggested that when I was talking to him before I redid the earth.
Minor problem of not having drill, and not having any self tapping screws...
I'm one of those people who tends to end up buying stuff right in the middle of finding out I need it to finish a job, annoying ! Like for example I now have about 10 spare scotchlocks, and similar number of bullet connectors , cable ties, 5amp cable etc etc. All handy for the future, but would have been better if I had it all at the start.
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Leigh
LOL, you've read all that and you would still let me near your wiring loom ? ? ? ?
Keep taking the tablets mate
To be honest, if I'd had the earth done right in the first place I probably wouldn't have had as many problems. Still don't know if the BROWN/RED wire was causing a problem as well, as I had the same 'non window raising' problem with it disconnected until I sorted the earth out. I just hope that when i come to fit the passenger locking motor to the drivers side that it doesn't need the BROWN/RED wire to work , otherwise I'll have to reconnect it.
I'd hope that if I did another one I'd have less hassle, and I'd know to not put all the scotchlocks in the place where the trim panel clicks in
Keep taking the tablets mate
To be honest, if I'd had the earth done right in the first place I probably wouldn't have had as many problems. Still don't know if the BROWN/RED wire was causing a problem as well, as I had the same 'non window raising' problem with it disconnected until I sorted the earth out. I just hope that when i come to fit the passenger locking motor to the drivers side that it doesn't need the BROWN/RED wire to work , otherwise I'll have to reconnect it.
I'd hope that if I did another one I'd have less hassle, and I'd know to not put all the scotchlocks in the place where the trim panel clicks in
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Leigh
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