Alternator cooling fan switch

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Alternator cooling fan switch

by Russep00 » Fri Aug 26, 2011 12:36 pm

Where will I find the switch for the alternator cooling fan on my V6?

In the process of changing the alternator (that's a fun job...) and have suspicions that the cooling fan is not working properly as it ran for ages after a relatively short journey recently.

Whilst I'm here - any top tips to get THAT top bolt undone on the alternator? I've taken to inlet manifold off to get more access from above, but then it got dar last night..... :roll:
1998 Calibra V6, 2001 Omega CDX Estate 2.6 V6, 1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by big_gordy » Sat Aug 27, 2011 8:43 pm

ohhh thats a b***h of a job 1 that i have never attempted!
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by tazz666 » Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:08 pm

the switch is on the bridge under the plastic cover on the left handside of the engine .if you remove the snorkel and look at the side under the cover next to the temp gauge sender,
as to the alternator jack up the right side take the wheel off, take out the oil/pressure switch and the alternator will come out of the inner wing,it is fiddly mate but it will come out ,as you dont need to take the exhaust or drive shaft off either,or if you get stuck put everything back together and bring it over to sunny corby and i will do it for you
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by big_gordy » Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:15 pm

fancy doing my engine too tazz? lol
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by tazz666 » Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:21 pm

big_gordy wrote:fancy doing my engine too tazz? lol

you pay the petrol son
sure the boys would do it for you if you ask nicely?
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by Russep00 » Sun Aug 28, 2011 7:11 pm

Thanks for the offer - finally got it out today :dance: , it's a 120amp job so did indeed need to take out the driveshaft - couldn't see any other way as it was fouling on the block and the inner CV joint. A few taps on the back of the inner CV saw it slide off the spline in fron of the supporting bearings easy enough. All the front suspension was replaced last year so that came apart nicely.

Rear bearings are shot in the alternator cause fragment of metal to short it out. Unusual for the rar bearings to go.... :(

Will recondition and pop it back during the week. Will take some pics and post up here as it's been a real b!tch of a job and if anyone can benefit from my pain then that makes me feel better at least!

Have found the switch so will just check it's working when it's all back together again.
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by Russep00 » Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:50 am

As promised - maybe move to 'How to'?

Replacement of Bosch 120A alternator in a Calibra V6

OK, this is a bit of a mare of a job so I thought I’d write it up to help others with the same problem. If you have all tools and parts to hand you’re probably looking at a full day to do this.

1) Disconnect battery. I put this first as I forgot until I was undoing the alternator connections at which point I got a painful reminder.

2) Remove MAF sensor ducting and remove (or just loosen) air filter box to allow access to adjuster on the aux belt. Using a strong bar and suitable size socket, rotate the adjuster nut towards the front of the car to slacken off and unloop the belt from the front power steering pulley. Carefully & slowly release the tension on the bar. For reference the route of the belt is described here: http://www.v6calibra.net/belts/v6calibra_belts.htm

3) Remove engine cover and inlet manifold (covered here: http://www.clubcalibra.net/knowledge/kb_show.php?id=36) – lift it up carefully and place towards the front of the engine. This may not be necessary but I found it easier to access the top alternator bolt down the back of the engine.

4) Jack up and remove o/s front wheel. Ensure car is safely lifted to allow access underneath.

5) Remove plastic wheel arch lining section (1 nut and 2 plastic clips – push the centre of the clip through to release). Remove wires from oil pressure sender.

6) Prise off the hub nut cap with a lever. Take split pin out of castellated hub nut. Undo hub nut with suitable socket and bar (you may need someone to put their foot on the brakes to help with this).

7) Remove split pin and undo castellated nut (18mm) to the end of the thread on bottom ball joint but DO NOT REMOVE. Undo the anti-roll bar drop link where it attaches onto the wishbone (13mm). Split bottom ball joint - standard scissor type splitters don’t fit here and the fork type will undoubtedly damage the ball joint cover so turn the steering onto full right lock and give the ball joint outer surround (bottom of the strut) a few good belts with a lump hammer and it (should) drop. Remove the castellated nut. Alternatively use a fork type splitter and source a cheap ball joint to simply replace the damaged cover (replacing the ball joint on the bottom arm is another tough job as the rivets will need grinding out or the whole arm replacing so avoid this if you can).

8) Straighten the wheels and using a block of wood against the driveshaft spline in the hub, give it a few gentle taps towards the car and you will then be able to pull the strut off of the driveshaft and gently move it to the side.

9) The alternator can clearly be seen but it still won’t fit through that gap! The 100A ones apparently do though, so if you have one of those, you can undo the top & bottom alternator bolts and it should come out with a wiggle.

10) From underneath the car, using a suitable drift (I used a cold chisel the wrong way round so the blunt end was against the CV joint), gently tap the back of the inner CV joint and it will slide off the spline. Rotating it while you do it should help. The Drive shaft can now be removed.

11) While under the car I removed the 2 nuts that hold on the heat shield around the back of the alternator. No need to remove the shield, just leave it flapping about, but this allows much better access to the tricky top bolt. In the picture below you can just about see the 2 shield nuts (circled red – 10mm) and the end of the spline with driveshaft detached (green circled)

Image

12) Unloop the belt from the alternator if it’s not already fallen off. Remove the bottom alternator bolt using a torx socket (E14) on the bolt head and a spanner on the rear nut (16mm).

13) The top bolt is done by feel alone as you can’t see the back of it. Loosening the heat shield allows a spanner in more easily while using a socket on the front of the bolt. My bolt was fitted with the nut at the front which makes it easier to re-fit – use an 11mm ring spanner on the torx head. Remove the bolt and the alternator is finally free (careful – it’s heavy). Rotate it to undo the two electrical connections bolted onto the rear.

14) The alternator will only pass through the wheel arch in a certain orientation – pully towards the floor.

Image

My alternator failed because the rear bearings had collapsed. I sourced replacement bearings from:
[url]
http://www.simplybearings.co.uk[/url]

The bearing sizes are as follows:

Front Bearing - 6303 2RS C3 ID=17mm OD=47mm D=14mm
Rear Bearing - 6203 2RS C3 ID=17mm OD=40mm D=12mm

I sourced a replacement regulator from Ebay – Bosch P/N 1 197 311 223 (VERG1017). For the cost it’s sensible to replace all these parts at the same time, unless you put a very low value on your own time.

Total cost ~£25.

Alternator refurbishment: Remove the alternator pully with a large offset ring spanner and a spline on a decent bar. This is very tight! If the offset on the spanner is not sufficient to fit into the pulley (as in my case) I used an old ½” drive socket with a spanner welded to the side (see picture)

Image

Undo the casing bolts and the screws behind the pully - an electric screwdriver is good here to get a bit of extra torque although I had to drill mine out and replace as the heads are soft and it was stuck fast. Use a socket to remove the outer casing bolts rather than a screwdriver. Split the casing (gently prise it open), clean up internals and remove bearings (small puller required here). When fitting the new bearings, the rear one must be installed onto the rotor first and the front into the front casing (with the holding plate and screws fitted). Remove black casing on rear of alternator to access the regulator and replace by removing the 2 screws. Ensure the contacts are clean (particularly the spring connection – see here: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1153772945)
For reference purposes, the Lucas number for the alternator is LRB00255, Bosch P/N 0123510062
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by tazz666 » Fri Sep 02, 2011 1:28 pm

the alternator on my old calibra was also the 120 amp one and it will come out with the drive shaft in position,as i said all i used to do was remove the oil pressure switch and the alternator comes out forward
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by Russep00 » Fri Sep 02, 2011 1:42 pm

I looked at that option and it wasn't happening, the rear CV joint was stopping it going anywhere.

maybe I was missing something, but believe me I spent a good time deliberating before splitting the driveshaft
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by tazz666 » Fri Sep 02, 2011 5:26 pm

when it comes down to it mate you have done it and that is the main thing :D
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by v6 steve » Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:15 pm

nice "how to" well done
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by Russep00 » Tue Sep 13, 2011 1:12 pm

Thanks Steve - hopefully someone will find it useful
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Re: Alternator cooling fan switch

by Fraz » Tue Sep 13, 2011 3:02 pm

added to the how to section, pity you never took more picture though

oh and there is one ther already ...just lost the pictures from that one
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