Changing front suspension

Any issues relating to suspension, steering and brakes.

by vauxhallman » Mon Apr 05, 2004 12:16 pm

OK guys, the time has come for me to replace the suspension. Now after getting silly prices from local garages (it's a complicated car to do, could take all day!), I am considering doing the work myself.

Obviously the backs are a doddle, but on the old site there was a how to done on removing front suspension from the top. Can anyone post a how to on this please as I'm looking to do this in the next ten days.

If not, how much should I be looking at to have front shocks and springs replaced ? (it has to be less than the £200 I was quoted for all four).

Cheers
Kevin
vauxhallman
 

Problem with boot lights???

by Dawson16v » Mon Apr 05, 2004 2:32 pm

Its easy..

Get brakes off (as you say doddle)
Undo bottom ball joint to wishbone.
Undo Track rod end to Strut ball joint.
Undo Hub nut (this will be tight, i use an 24" extension bar) Loosen driveshaft from hub with a gentle tap.
Undo top strut mount nut.

Strut should now drop out, make sure that the ABS sensor is disconnected.

Then to take the shock and spring out.
Compress spring, undo top nut, takeout bearing etc, then spring, then shcok.

I've probably missedsomthing but it really isnt hard! :wink:
Dawson16v
 

by diamondcali » Mon Apr 05, 2004 4:22 pm

Hi,
<!--quoteo--><div class='quotetop'></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->Get brakes off (as you say doddle)
Undo bottom ball joint to wishbone.
Undo Track rod end to Strut ball joint.
Undo Hub nut (this will be tight, i use an 24" extension bar) Loosen driveshaft from hub with a gentle tap.
Undo top strut mount nut.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
yep...thats all well and good,as long as all the joints are free.
I have just had mine done on my drive way and the track rod end going
to the strut was seized.
The only way he could free it was to apply some heat to the trackrod end.
This worked but he then had to put a new track rod end on.
So yep....it`s all relativley easy as long as it all goes to plan......
And how often does that happen.
Andy.
diamondcali
 

by Dawson16v » Mon Apr 05, 2004 4:32 pm

If you have a good strong ball joints splitter then it will free eventually, soak it in WD40 for a few hours first..

But yeah i here you about not going according to plan most of the time!!
Dawson16v
 

by vauxhallman » Mon Apr 05, 2004 5:11 pm

Thanks guys but the bit that is worrying me most is the top nut, I've heard this is VERY tight, and without a vice I can use I am wondering how to get it undone. I know it can be done from the top without splitting the ball joints etc, and this was how I was planning on doing it, but with the other site being down, I don't know how.

Which way is easiest ? I'm going to do shocks and springs, and the car is a Turbo by the way.
vauxhallman
 

by diamondcali » Mon Apr 05, 2004 6:11 pm

Hi,
quote]If you have a good strong ball joints splitter then it will free eventually, soak it in WD40 for a few hours first.. [/quote]

yep....done all that,left it for two days and still would not come apart.
And trust me I do have avery good mechanic.
Am just very glad I never tried this by myself.
He put on a new lower suspension arm and a new track rod end,
changed the front and back shocks.
Total price inc parts...........£200
I think for piece of mind that's a bargain.
Andy.[
diamondcali
 

by Fraz » Mon Apr 05, 2004 6:51 pm

do you have a work mate? that is what I used to hold the strut while undoing the top nut ...need a large pair of stilton's as well.Thing it was me that did a long write up for Splinter a while ago .....been a while so please bear with me here

tools needed

18 mm spanner
16 mm spanner
30 mm socket
13 mm spanner or socket
long breaker bar
LARGE hammer
long strong pole about a meter or slightly longer
10 mm Allen key
24 mm socket or swan neck spanner (also may need torx bit or whatever for top of strut centre)
large pozie drive screwdriver of better still a impact screwdriver
pair of pliers
mole grips
wire brush
large pair of stilton's
axle stands
good quality spring compressors
suitable jack
chocks for wheels
large vice or workmate bench
torque wrench

also handy is a pal to help out and make tea



first thing I do is slacken the top strut tops, with the weight of the car on it is usually easier to undo the nut...use your spanner or socket and do a short sharp jerk motion to slacken the nut ( I usually apply pressure then a gently tap with hammer ) if it don't slacken off, have a look and see what method they use in the centre of the strut top..could be a torx,spine or even a small flat edge

you will need a swan neck spanner for this ...hold centre of strut and use spanner to slacken the nut..hopefully it works if not you will need to use mole grips to hold the bit in the middle of the strut and slacken the nut that way ( not recommend by strut manufactures but always done in a garage)

now the strut tops are slack...slacken wheel bolts and jack up car ..position axle stands (do not put on the bottom arms though)

this is where a pal comes in handy .... remove the split pin on the end of drive shaft, get friend to apply footbrake ..use 30 mm socket and breaker bar to remove the drive shaft nut.

now remove the calliper . you will find two small metal caps at rear of the calliper (might not be there though) prise these off with screwdriver ...use 10 mm Allen key (gently tap home with hammer as well) and remove the two bolts from calliper ...tie calliper up out the way somewhere ...remove the screw holding disc to hub..again these might have been broken before so may not be there ...I use impact screwdriver for these ...but if you don't have one give the end a good few healthy taps with a hammer first ..use screwdriver and if your lucky it will come undone..if not ....drill it out or borrow/buy a impact screwdriver ...once that is undone remove the disc from hub ..if it is reluctant to come off apply a few good hits with a hammer to the centre part of the disc where the wheel nuts go DO NOT HIT THE DISC BRAKING AREA or you will be needing new discs

now the fun part ...removing the track rod ends ..IIRC these are 16 mm nuts (may be wrong could be 17 mm or 15 mm..been a while)

clean the threads with wire brush and apply plus gas or WD40 and have a cup of tea ...if your lucky they will slacken off...if not what I do is use the pole and wedge it so I can apply pressure to the top of the track rod end ..bit fiddly but you will manage it ...(again pal comes in handy here) applying pressure and try and slacken the nut off..if it goes tight and start to spin tighten it up again and clean the threads and more WD40 and then try to slacken it a bit more...keep doing this and it should come right off.....to remove the track rod end from the hub/strut joint , these are a taper fit ...only way have done it is with a hammer ..DO NOT HIT THE THREAD AREA THOUGH or you will need a new track rod end and they are even worse to try and remove ....

turn steering as far as you can put the nut back on few threads and hit the side of the bit where the track rod end goes through , don't be shy as they need a few GOOD hits ...it should just then pop out ..remove the nut and then the track rod end from strut/hub joint.

now the bottom arm..under the CV joint is the nut holding the arm to the hub on mine it was an 18 mm and has a clip going through the nut and end of the ball joint .remove the split pin or clip ..might not budge and end up snapping..in which case once its off you can drill it out or find a nylock nut to use instead for when it goes back together.

once the nut is off or at least slackened (it may not go all the way off and hit the cv joint) ...you can use a ball joint remover..problem with the fork type is these tend to rip the rubber seals around ball joint and the pivot type are not much use as you cant get in with them.you could try applying loads of grease to the rubber seal and use fork type ..might work and not rip the seal or

get the pole wedge it under the car so you can apply pressure to the bottom arm close to the ball joint..get your pal (see you will need one at least) and get him/her to stand on the end of the pole...give the bit where the ball joint goes through a good few hits with hammer (same idea as track rod end) and hopefully it will pop out ..once it has you should now get the nut fully off, leaver the arm down..and remove the drive shaft from the hub ..now undo the top 13 mm nuts and you will be able to remove the complete strut from the car

you now have to compress the spring ..if your anyway unsure about this I suggest you now take the strut and new shocks to a garage and pay them the money to change them for you

use spring compressors on spring position them opposite each other and then tighten equal amounts each time until tension is off the top...now the top nut needs to come off, slacken that off and remove all the bearings and seats ..keep them in the order they came off as it will be easier to remember how they go back on...now remove the spring from the strut...CAREFULLY lay it down where it won't get knocked or kicked (spring is under extreme tension ..spring clamps slip and the spring will take your arm/head off!!!! I have seen one go through a brick wall)

once spring is off ..place strut in vice or workmate and now use stilton's to remove the large nut at top of the strut (IT WILL BE TIGHT) once off remove the shock absorber fit new one and tighten the large nut up, replace the spring and the rest of the seats and bearings and tighten the nut ..CAREFULLY slacken the spring compressors equal amounts until it is seated right .... and then as they say replacement is a reversal of removal

it really is not as bad as it sounds and if all goes well should take about an hour a side...but if your not sure about anything especially the compressing of the spring ...once it is off the car a garage should not charge that much to do the rest

good luck and if anyone has something to add please just go ahead ..like I said it was a while ago since I did mine and I am bound to have forgot or said something wrong
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by vauxhallman » Mon Apr 05, 2004 7:28 pm

Cheers mate!

Looks like I've got an interesting weekend ahead !

Kevin
vauxhallman
 

by RobbieV » Mon Apr 05, 2004 7:37 pm

Thats some really handy info there chaps [img]/smile.gif[/img] think i`ll book 2 weeks holiday when i do mine [img]/laugh.gif[/img]
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by SteveU » Mon Apr 05, 2004 9:10 pm

If you have a digi camera then take some piccies while you're doing it, then you can combine it with Fraz's instructions and make a how2 guide for the website.
SteveU
 

by Dawson16v » Mon Apr 05, 2004 9:35 pm

I am in the process of doing that now.. i have already taken the strut out once and put it back again.. i am waiting for my Eibach springs to arrive then i'll be doing it again with pics etc...
Dawson16v
 

by RobbieV » Mon Apr 05, 2004 9:42 pm

Hi, Doing an "How to" on this subject is an excellant idea :wink:
I look forward to seeing it and using it in the near future [img]/smile.gif[/img]

Cheers Rob
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