OIL GONE OUT OF THE POWER STEERING
This isn't neccessarily a sign that all is well, just an indication. I bought my car as a 2WD conversion without a TX box or propshaft but the 4x4 light still worked as advertised.i am sure that the 4x4 light comes up when i turn the ignition on and then goes off. is there a panel lights description somewhere to check what light stays on please?
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MickM
ok guys!!!
i tested the car yesterday for hours. tried wheelspinning and everything the car 4x4 was ok. i took it to a specialist and noticed that the bulb next to the accumulator had a white(silver) ring on it. the car didn't have an accident before, just a little rust net to the windshield on the drivers side. eveything seemed ok until the car run out of petrol. the fuel indicator showed that there is 1/4 of fuel in the tank and the car could not speed up at all. i mean it didnt go off but it couldnt move and the engine was idle. the guy said that this is how UK cars indicate the fuel. I laughed. I had a ford escord, mini cooper which were UK cars and none had this problem. I assume that there is a lot of dirt in the fuel tank for this to hav happened. Any ideas?
Besides that he good news is that i have found a black 12/93 16v calibra, 1 previous owner whos happens to be the wife of the official distributor of opel here in Cyprus. I suppose that the car will have a full service history since all services were complimentary. I am going to take that one for a spin this afternoon. It has 105000 KM on it which shows that the car wasn't used very much. I will check for possible crashes since it was a woman driving. I am looking forward to being a good car and finally buy it. I like calibra toooooooooo much to get an alternative car. It is that it's just better for me to get a non turbo 16v calibra that will have the power and be less expensive to maintain. I want a calibra that will run for another 10 years. I will be looking after it.
tio
i tested the car yesterday for hours. tried wheelspinning and everything the car 4x4 was ok. i took it to a specialist and noticed that the bulb next to the accumulator had a white(silver) ring on it. the car didn't have an accident before, just a little rust net to the windshield on the drivers side. eveything seemed ok until the car run out of petrol. the fuel indicator showed that there is 1/4 of fuel in the tank and the car could not speed up at all. i mean it didnt go off but it couldnt move and the engine was idle. the guy said that this is how UK cars indicate the fuel. I laughed. I had a ford escord, mini cooper which were UK cars and none had this problem. I assume that there is a lot of dirt in the fuel tank for this to hav happened. Any ideas?
Besides that he good news is that i have found a black 12/93 16v calibra, 1 previous owner whos happens to be the wife of the official distributor of opel here in Cyprus. I suppose that the car will have a full service history since all services were complimentary. I am going to take that one for a spin this afternoon. It has 105000 KM on it which shows that the car wasn't used very much. I will check for possible crashes since it was a woman driving. I am looking forward to being a good car and finally buy it. I like calibra toooooooooo much to get an alternative car. It is that it's just better for me to get a non turbo 16v calibra that will have the power and be less expensive to maintain. I want a calibra that will run for another 10 years. I will be looking after it.
tio
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tb303
hi there again!!!
can you please tell me whether after 80,000 miles on the cars clock the turbo starts wearing out and i need to change it? Will it die soon because the car i am buying has 90,000 miles? How much does the turbo cost? Any site where they sell them? what should i expect to break if i get to buy a 1992 calibra turbo 4x4. i am certaintly installing a switch to go from 4wd to 2wd. dont wanna risk the tbox. people here are busting my balls that i'll go bankrupt getting this car. cally's here sell for like 7,000 quid. what should i tell the garage mechanic to change on the car engine before i buy it?
can you please tell me whether after 80,000 miles on the cars clock the turbo starts wearing out and i need to change it? Will it die soon because the car i am buying has 90,000 miles? How much does the turbo cost? Any site where they sell them? what should i expect to break if i get to buy a 1992 calibra turbo 4x4. i am certaintly installing a switch to go from 4wd to 2wd. dont wanna risk the tbox. people here are busting my balls that i'll go bankrupt getting this car. cally's here sell for like 7,000 quid. what should i tell the garage mechanic to change on the car engine before i buy it?
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tb303
Honda S2000 rear lights
I hope the turbos don't go after 80k, mines done 104k lol.
Why a 2-4 wd switch? That might cause more probs with tyre wear.
The TXB should last (mine has) with proper maintenance ie no handbreak turns (EVER), change all 4 tyres together (I had a puncture - had to change all 4) and servicing from someone who knows what they're doing.
They are great cars and a LOT of fun, just expensive when they break!
I can't say mines been cheap to run, it hasn't, I blew my engine twice and I've spent the purchace price again in repairs, but it's still fun. If I wanted to go slow I'd have bought a slow car, I want to use it for what it was designed for, they're old cars now so need looking after. Get it properly serviced before thrashing it to be on the safe side (oil & filters (engine gearbox & TXB), plugs, cam belt, pullys, water pump, maybe even check/clean the injectors) melted pistons are not recommended, & make sure all 4 tyres are the same tred depth/wear. And make sure you know how to disable 4 wd for emergencies (like punctures when you put the space saver wheel on). Mines a '95 turbo btw.
Perhaps <a href="http://www.v-t-s.freeserve.co.uk/CONTACT%20US.htm" target="_blank">Bri & Paul</a> want a holiday in Cyprus, perhaps you could bribe them to come & service your car while they're there [img]/smile.gif[/img]
Why a 2-4 wd switch? That might cause more probs with tyre wear.
The TXB should last (mine has) with proper maintenance ie no handbreak turns (EVER), change all 4 tyres together (I had a puncture - had to change all 4) and servicing from someone who knows what they're doing.
They are great cars and a LOT of fun, just expensive when they break!
I can't say mines been cheap to run, it hasn't, I blew my engine twice and I've spent the purchace price again in repairs, but it's still fun. If I wanted to go slow I'd have bought a slow car, I want to use it for what it was designed for, they're old cars now so need looking after. Get it properly serviced before thrashing it to be on the safe side (oil & filters (engine gearbox & TXB), plugs, cam belt, pullys, water pump, maybe even check/clean the injectors) melted pistons are not recommended, & make sure all 4 tyres are the same tred depth/wear. And make sure you know how to disable 4 wd for emergencies (like punctures when you put the space saver wheel on). Mines a '95 turbo btw.
Perhaps <a href="http://www.v-t-s.freeserve.co.uk/CONTACT%20US.htm" target="_blank">Bri & Paul</a> want a holiday in Cyprus, perhaps you could bribe them to come & service your car while they're there [img]/smile.gif[/img]
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PaulT
Re: Back from Well Lane RR, only got 250bhp, hmmm
the calibra turbo i am trying to buy was made 5/1992. by the way if the engine breaks what are the costs i'll have to bear? I will use the car for travelling around 100km everyday. No urban driving. Just cruisin'. I won't be giving the car a hard time. I like going fast but not on tehse s****Y roads here. I just want to make sure the car will run for another 4-5 years.
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tb303
It cost me 1700 quid first time, melted pistons after a thrash (on a 'private road' officer) - new pistons & rings, head skim, gaskets, labour etc and 700 quid second time, loosened valve seat after another thrash - head refurb, gaskets, labour etc and I've spent another 1000 quid or so on maintenance (some of it overdue) since.
Are you frightened now lol. If you want a reliable car I personally would NOT recommend a Cally T, go Japanese for that. I'm still not sure if I'm keeping mine yet, I do like the car but the expense is killing my wallet.
If you can do the mechanic stuff yourself it will help and it will save you money. If you just want a Cally for the looks go for an 8 or 16 valve, the 8 valve engines are bullet proof (had a Cav SRi before, no probs with that). Electronics is my field, soldering circuit boards & the like, not much use on cars lol.
At the end of the day the decision is yours (he says, passing the buck), a Cally T is so much fun, if you get a good one you'll have less probs but nothing is certain. All Callys look great though.
Are you frightened now lol. If you want a reliable car I personally would NOT recommend a Cally T, go Japanese for that. I'm still not sure if I'm keeping mine yet, I do like the car but the expense is killing my wallet.
If you can do the mechanic stuff yourself it will help and it will save you money. If you just want a Cally for the looks go for an 8 or 16 valve, the 8 valve engines are bullet proof (had a Cav SRi before, no probs with that). Electronics is my field, soldering circuit boards & the like, not much use on cars lol.
At the end of the day the decision is yours (he says, passing the buck), a Cally T is so much fun, if you get a good one you'll have less probs but nothing is certain. All Callys look great though.
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PaulT
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