How to remove the top strut bolt and bearing?

[Leigh]

So the long and short of it is I can't actually check the rubbers and bearings without removing the whole strut?

Damn, thought I'd read on here somewhere that you could check the rubbers and bearings from the top, tho now I've actually looked I should have realised!

Never done any work on the suspension before, have to get myself a set of spring compressors an many hours spare..

[RAINMAKER]

Where applicable, remove the wheel trim, then loosen the relevant front road wheel bolts. Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands positioned under the body side members. Remove the relevant front roadwheel.
Remove/disconnect the ABS wheel sensor.
Remove the brake caliper from the hub carrier. The caliper can be suspended out of the way, using wire or string, to avoid the need to disconnect the hydraulic fluid hose.
Unscrew and remove the self-locking nut from the tie-rod end to suspension strut .
Using a balljoint separator, disconnect the tie-rod end to suspension strut balljoint.
Undo and remove the nut on the wishbone to strut and use a seperater to part.
Disconnect the outboard end of the driveshaft from the hub carrier,remove the pin and undo the shaft nut. Do not allow the driveshaft to hang down under its own weight. support with wire or string..
Working in the engine compartment, unscrew the nut securing the suspension strut to the suspension turret. Support the suspension
strut as the nut is unscrewed, as once the nut
has been removed, the strut is free to drop from the vehicle.
Withdraw the suspension strut/hub carrier assembly from the vehicle.
If desired, the suspension strut can be overhauled.

Overhaul
With the suspension strut resting on a bench or clamped in a vice, fit a spring compressor tool, and compress the coil spring to relieve the pressure on the upper spring seal. Ensure that the compressor tool
is securely located on the spring, according to the tool manufacturer's instructions.
Hold the strut piston rod as during top cap removal, and unscrew the piston rod nut.
Lift off the strut upper mounting rubber and the bearing.
Lift off the upper spring seat and damper ring, then carefully release the spring compressor and remove the spring, Note which way the spring is fitted. now remove the rubber bellow and bump stop.
The ring nut must be unscrewed from the top of the strut tube. This nut is extremely tight.
One method that can be used to unscrew the the insert nut is to invert the strut and clamp the nut in a vice, then lever the strut round using a long
bar and a bolt passed through the tie-rod bracket or place the strut in the vice and a good set of stilsons around the nut would work too the nut is very tight..
With the ring nut removed , the shock absorber cartridge can be withdrawn.
The shock absorber can be tested by clamping the lower end in a vice, then fully extending and contracting the shock absorber
several times. Any evidence of jerky movement or lack of resistance indicates the need for renewal. Examine all components for wear or
damage and renew as necessary. Pay particular attention to the mounting rubber and the bearing.
Reassembly is as reverse of removal..
The insert nut must be torqued to 200Nm and the top mount/ bearing nut to 55Nm..

Here a pic of the assembly to assist..

[Fraz]

you may be able to keep the strut attached to the bottom arm and everything else, and leaver the full Assembly down enough to inspect the rubbers etc...though it would be easier to split the ball joint, disconnect the steering track rod ends, anti roll bar links and remove the calipers...then just take the strut out and inspect it

[Callyman]

you may be able to keep the strut attached to the bottom arm and everything else, and leaver the full Assembly down enough to inspect the rubbers etc...though it would be easier to split the ball joint, disconnect the steering track rod ends, anti roll bar links and remove the calipers...then just take the strut out and inspect it

Sounds sensible Fraz, but also would add, dont ever remove ARB links with out having new ones at hand as the stud always break.

[RAINMAKER]

Why would you remove the arb links/drop links for removing a strut assembly...

[Fraz]

easier to push the bottom arm down, thats all

[RAINMAKER]

fair enough fraz but i must admit it would be a very tight to get out, not sure if that may be possible..but worth a try..

[Leigh]

Cheers Rainmaker, I've got the Haynes but that's handy having the exploded diagram in the same thread, as I'm currently TIS'less..

It's sounding less like something I can do comfortably by the minute!

[Callyman]

Why would you remove the arb links/drop links for removing a strut assembly...

thats a good question lol

[Fraz]

Why would you remove the arb links/drop links for removing a strut assembly...

thats a good question lol

as i said

easier to push the bottom arm down, thats all

[Leigh]

Of course they'll break, because I only replaced them about 3 months ago (and mightily happy I was with myself too, was so suprised as how easy they were to do - mine are the later type )

I'm really wanting to do the lot anyway, got new trackrod ends and wishbones ready to fit as well, just preferred to check one thing at time in advance if I could have.
Not looking forward to the wishbones after reading the horror stories about the threads in the floorpan geting f00ked, then I really will be in trouble..

Local motor factors said it's about £35 per side for strut bush and bearing (he had them listed together as a kit in his catalogue), but he's also gonna check around for lower prices. Does £35 sound about right per side? I've not phoned Autovaux etc yet to ask their prices.

[LE16]

I know this is old but what about the ring in 15? as its angled. The diagram is possibly indicating that the thicker end of the ring is inward and thiner part is hub side (if you get what I am saying) only because I need to check this on mine as I have a creek. (and because I have done work in that area)

[LE16]

Have you got a photo so that I can see? I know it's angled but it's difficult to see when the spring is compressed (in spring compressor) If I remember right it has tabs which line up with holes on the strut too?

[LE16]

It's not random.

I have done work in that area but for the record it would be nice to have a diagram.

The Haynes manual is pretty vague on this with its 2d imagery.

I know the spring locks up against a metal tab in the tray. So as long as that is lined up it should be fairly easy to get the rubber in the right place too. But like I say, nothing better than a picture.

Sean.