How to remove the top strut bolt and bearing?

[Leigh]

I want to check my strut top mount bushes (the black half-doughnut type rubbers) and the bearing, in preparation for a week off before xmas when I want to get as many jobs done on the car as I can...

I tried undoing the very top nut (the one that's under the plastic cap on the top of the front strut), tried with a smaller pair of stilsons (couldn't get very good grip straight sideways on),, and an adjustable 'shifting' spanner, but when I try to knock the bolt to loosen it , it just moves the whole top disc part.

Is it just because it's so tight and will need penetrating oil/'cracking' etc to free the bolt on the thread, or am I missing something ?

I've got the car on the ground, as I thought you can remove the top nut, rubber and bearing without removing the rest of the suspension???

thanks in advance!

[Leigh]

err, maybe I'm just not with it today, but whereabouts? I don't remember seeing any holes !
Wish I'd posted this before lunchtime, could have taken a pic!

[RobbieV]

Middle of the nut.

[Tim2001]

there is not always the allen key in the middle of the nut.

I had an enormous socket when i was raiding these from the scrappy for chroming but sometimes the whole thing turned at the time just went onto the next one. I believe the top of the bolt is sometimes a smaller spanner fit.

[Leigh]

I'll try and get a pic of mine tonight or tommorow in daylight and stick it on here,
cheers for the replies so far guys

[neilht]

..........................

[Fraz]

there will be something to stop the strut insert from turning, could be a hex head or just two flats or as mentioned an Allan or trox slot in the top. If all else fails (and its not recommended due to you may bend the insert) is a pair of mole grips between the spring and grip the insert that way

[Leigh]

Ah hah, d'oh, didn't notice the top of the bolt/thread/insert was not threaded,



When I crouched down and peered under the disc I can see what looks like another substantial sized nut as well.

I can't see how I'm going to be able to remove and/or check the rubber donught and the bearing , surely it won't be possible from the top with the casting in the way?

[RAINMAKER]

you'll need to remove the whole strut to inspect..

[Fraz]

That nut you see underneath is what is holding the spring on the strut, along with the top mount and bearing. You wont be able to get that off with out using spring compressors

[Callyman]

Always wondered about this, if the nut was removed, and providing you stopped the piston from dropping...would the weight of the car not hold the spring compressed ?

[Fraz]

well the spring would lift the car up a bit , may also pop out the bottom and then you will have the problem of how to remove it from the strut tower

[Leigh]

So the long and short of it is I can't actually check the rubbers and bearings without removing the whole strut?

Damn, thought I'd read on here somewhere that you could check the rubbers and bearings from the top, tho now I've actually looked I should have realised!

Never done any work on the suspension before, have to get myself a set of spring compressors an many hours spare..

[RAINMAKER]

Where applicable, remove the wheel trim, then loosen the relevant front road wheel bolts. Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands positioned under the body side members. Remove the relevant front roadwheel.
Remove/disconnect the ABS wheel sensor.
Remove the brake caliper from the hub carrier. The caliper can be suspended out of the way, using wire or string, to avoid the need to disconnect the hydraulic fluid hose.
Unscrew and remove the self-locking nut from the tie-rod end to suspension strut .
Using a balljoint separator, disconnect the tie-rod end to suspension strut balljoint.
Undo and remove the nut on the wishbone to strut and use a seperater to part.
Disconnect the outboard end of the driveshaft from the hub carrier,remove the pin and undo the shaft nut. Do not allow the driveshaft to hang down under its own weight. support with wire or string..
Working in the engine compartment, unscrew the nut securing the suspension strut to the suspension turret. Support the suspension
strut as the nut is unscrewed, as once the nut
has been removed, the strut is free to drop from the vehicle.
Withdraw the suspension strut/hub carrier assembly from the vehicle.
If desired, the suspension strut can be overhauled.

Overhaul
With the suspension strut resting on a bench or clamped in a vice, fit a spring compressor tool, and compress the coil spring to relieve the pressure on the upper spring seal. Ensure that the compressor tool
is securely located on the spring, according to the tool manufacturer's instructions.
Hold the strut piston rod as during top cap removal, and unscrew the piston rod nut.
Lift off the strut upper mounting rubber and the bearing.
Lift off the upper spring seat and damper ring, then carefully release the spring compressor and remove the spring, Note which way the spring is fitted. now remove the rubber bellow and bump stop.
The ring nut must be unscrewed from the top of the strut tube. This nut is extremely tight.
One method that can be used to unscrew the the insert nut is to invert the strut and clamp the nut in a vice, then lever the strut round using a long
bar and a bolt passed through the tie-rod bracket or place the strut in the vice and a good set of stilsons around the nut would work too the nut is very tight..
With the ring nut removed , the shock absorber cartridge can be withdrawn.
The shock absorber can be tested by clamping the lower end in a vice, then fully extending and contracting the shock absorber
several times. Any evidence of jerky movement or lack of resistance indicates the need for renewal. Examine all components for wear or
damage and renew as necessary. Pay particular attention to the mounting rubber and the bearing.
Reassembly is as reverse of removal..
The insert nut must be torqued to 200Nm and the top mount/ bearing nut to 55Nm..

Here a pic of the assembly to assist..

[Fraz]

you may be able to keep the strut attached to the bottom arm and everything else, and leaver the full Assembly down enough to inspect the rubbers etc...though it would be easier to split the ball joint, disconnect the steering track rod ends, anti roll bar links and remove the calipers...then just take the strut out and inspect it