How To Adjust Rear Camber Correction Cav/Cally For Free

[FatLadZ]

If your like me and have a lowered cav/cally, you might notice how the rear camber is at a silly angle and your tyres wear quite badly on the inside, especially on large wheels and wide tyres.

So I have come up with a how 2 to solve this problem, without spending silly money on crappy kits [

Follow the haynes manual for removing the subframe, or ....

First off you need to drop the subframe, get the rear of the car on axle stands, needs to be fairly high to make space for the subframe to come out.



You have to remove the rear calipers and unclip the hydraulic pipes from the trailing arms (including the abs units) also you have to remove the fuel pipes from the pump and filter (petrol will come out of the pipes, so you need to block them). Handbrake cable also needs removing, and the exhaust rear section.

Now put a jack up onto the subframe and unbolt the two bolts at the back of the subframe. The rear suspension crossmember rear tube securing bolts



Now undo the front bolts that hold the subframe to the car (look for the big rubber bush) and the metal bracing bracket bolted to the unside of the car.

Now lower the subframe on the jack




Making sure nothing is still connected.

Now pull the entire subframe from underneath the car and lay it down somewhere. Now remove the trailing arms from their mounts.






You will have to flattern the lip on the outside of the outside mounting points, so the nut will go down flat.

Now you have to lower the hole on the outside mounting point, 20mm is fine for a 40/45mm drop. Make all the neccessary measurements and centre punch the centre of your hole. Start drilling with long 5/6mm drill and go through both sides of the mounting plates, making sure the new holes line up.
Now put a long 8mm drill through both holes. Followed by a 12mm hole to finish. (New hole indicated with red arrow)

(Subframe is upside down in this picture)

Now the bolt has to be modified to go under the larger lip on the inside of the outer mounting point






You may get the old holes rewelded up if you desire just to be on the safe side or better still get a plate welded in the recess and drill through the plate and the subframe [img]/smile.gif[/img]



Now put the trailing arms back on the subframe, but don't tighten the nuts and bolts up.

Put it all back on the car and jack up the trailing arm to roughly the normal height it would be, and tighten the nuts and bolts that connect them to the subframe (this will stop the rubber bushes from being stressed).

Fit the wheels back on and you'll see a big improvement ! [img]/biggrin.gif[/img]



This is much better than it was originally


"how to" kindly donated by Ben Copeland

[dazjb]

Yeah, i think i looked at this some time ago on Mig. Excellent How-To. :thumb:

[thegenie1]

i know ya a star fatz but do you knw where the bought camber kit fits in
you dont know if they are like the camber bolts they used to do for the novas where the bolts were off shaped...!
or do you know if the camber kit fits in the same place as this mod

regards gav

[FatLadZ]

<a href="http://www.aqth92.dsl.pipex.com/2.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.aqth92.dsl.pipex.com/2.jpg</a>

[thegenie1]

Fatz you are a star thanks alot

gav

[Rusty_CallyT]

can any1 stick a pic of BAD camber up as mine *looks* ok but i cant be sure, its had a -35mm drop (or thats what the model number on the springs say)

EDIT: this cant be that easy on a turbo with the diff and shafts on the back

[Daimon]

Damn, now I've gotta go and have a look at fixing my rear camber. It's just a 'tad' out, hahahah.. [img]/wink.gif[/img]

Hey FatZ, how much do the irmscher bushes cost?

D.

[Dan Willis]

Nice work Fatz - thanks for bringing that back up to date (it's been a while since I've seen that post). [img]/smile.gif[/img]

[FatLadZ]

the irmscher camber bushes are about as good as a ford.
i fitted them to mine and wasnt impressed
maybe i fitted them wrong?
i dont honestly know
but i can assure you the remounting works a treat.
one of the main reasons i darent change my wheels
the setup is bang on at present [img]/biggrin.gif[/img].
thats why i thought it was important to bring this how to back onto the scene
fatz

[thegenie1]

<!--QuoteBegin-Rusty_CallyT+--><div class='quotetop'>(Rusty_CallyT)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->EDIT: this cant be that easy on a turbo with the diff and shafts on the back<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

as above its going to be alot harder on a 4x4 i think has any one tried this on a 4x4

gav

[Daimon]

What interests me is apart from the obvious cost of faster wear on the tyres what does bad camber do?? Sorry, I would probably be able to find it if I went looking for ages, but I know I'll get a wealth of options on here heheheh.

D.

[daddycool]

<!--QuoteBegin-Daimon+--><div class='quotetop'>(Daimon)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->What interests me is apart from the obvious cost of faster wear on the tyres what does bad camber do?? Sorry, I would probably be able to find it if I went looking for ages, but I know I'll get a wealth of options on here heheheh.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->On a 2WD car... Nothing.

On a 4x4 it actually makes the effective diameter of the rear tyres slightly larger. This difference in front and rear diameter heats up the transfer box fluid and eventually screws it up. [img]/sad.gif[/img]

[FatLadZ]

yes ive done this on a 4x4 and the propshaft does require removal
been a couple of years since i did mine
fatz

[Phil69]

Fatz - had a look at this. With the right length drill bits e.t.c I have a feeling that it may be possible to do this without dropping the sub frame. The trailing arms would obviously still have to come off though but it may save a reasonable bit of hassle!
Even so, well done for the how to....very good.